The Finger Lakes area of New York State is a treasure trove for photographers. The many state parks and forests that sit in what is the heart of New York wine country are definitely underrated gems, particularly so for those interested in waterfalls. In the fall of 2008, I visited the area for a week, hiking in 5 state parks and checking out numerous local wineries.
The main towns in the area are Watkins Glen, Corning and Ithaca. Watkins Glen may be better known for its world famous road racing coarse, Corning of course is the home of Corning Glass and Ithaca is where the Ivy League’s Cornell University is located. The drive from Toronto to Watkins Glen is about 5 hours and from New York City it’s about the same. The town of Watkins Glen sits at the south end of Seneca Lake. Corning and Ithaca are both roughly 40 to 50 minute drives from Watkin’s Glen. I’m referencing other points to Watkins Glen because that’s where I stayed.
Right in Watkin’s Glen on Rt 14 is Watkins Glen State Park. Unquestionably the best maintained of all the parks I visited, WGSP offers a cornucopia of possibilities for landscape/nature photographers. The Gorge Trail is roughly 2 miles long, has over 800 stairs and rises 500 vertical feet. The trail is extremely well maintained. There are garbage cans along the trail (most of the parks are carry in/carry out). The hike is not difficult except for the climbing and you will do a lot of climbing. Particularly at the end of the hike up the trail, the stairway out of the gorge is going to hurt a little. The footing is sound due to the stairs and maintenance of the trail. You’ll cross over the gorge a few times on the hike. There are rest stops at both top and bottom, a gift shop at the bottom and vending machines to get a cold drink at both ends. There are a few places along the trail you can rest as well. At some points during the year, shuttles are available to take you from top to bottom or vice versa so you can choose to hike in just one direction if you choose. The shuttles mainly operate during the summer season and on weekends in the spring and fall. Check with the park for more information on the shuttles.
With nearly 20 individual falls along the trail, plan to spend a couple hours going each way. The trail and the falls look very different going down than going up and you’ll get some different and interesting framing in both directions. The trail map shows the main sections of the route.
Spiral Gorge is particularly interesting and there are plenty of different opportunities within this section of the trail.
Spiral Gorge
The Rainbow Falls area is also one where there are lots of opportunities both from above and below.
Rainbow Falls
In this photo below, you can see how the glacial erosion over thousands of years has cut and carved through the bedrock.
Cascading Waters
The park is open year round but the Gorge Trail is closed in winter. The colours in autumn are spectacular. If you want greater volumes of water then going soon after the trail opens in May would be the best bet.
Robert H. Treman State Park is another in the area with some terrific views and waterfalls. A little southwest of Ithaca, Treman SP is about a 40 to 45 minute drive from Watkins Glen. The best attraction in Treman is Lucifer Falls which is at the top of the Gorge Trail. The Gorge Trail runs for a little over 2 miles and rises 600 feet vertically. The hike would be classed as moderate to difficult. Difficult because some areas of the trail aren’t well maintained. Stairs are heaved in some places making climbing on them more difficult. If you want to forego the walk up from the bottom entrance, you can enter at the top end and make the short walk down the trail, perhaps half a mile, to the falls then walk back out. Whichever way you go, make sure you take note of sunset and plan your time accordingly. Trying to walk down the trail in darkness isn’t overly easy (don’t ask me how I know that). Timex Indiglo watches do provide a surprising amount of light; however.

Lucifer Falls
Just a little above Lucifer Falls is Upper Falls. It’s difficult to get a good shot of this one unless you’re willing to climb down into the gorge and walk along the riverbed. This isn’t, I don’t believe, generally permitted so do so at your own risk.
Upper Falls B&W
If you’re walking down from the top, as you make your way down into the gorge and begin walking the trail, the light may be right to get some good shots from the top of Upper Falls as well.

Upper Falls
At the top of the trail you’ll find an old mill that’s been preserved. Inside this building are public washrooms. To the river side of the mill is another small cascade that zigzags down the rocks and you can get some interesting interplay between light and shadow depending on the time of day.
For a change of pace and a much easier walk, Taughannock Falls State Park is the desired destination. The Gorge Trail here is flat and only 3/4 of a mile long. The easy walk along a wide, well groomed trail brings you to Taughannock Falls. Walking into this waterfall is like walking into a giant amphitheatre made out of rock. Taughannock Falls itself is over 200 feet high. The rock walls leading out from the falls rise over 400 feet from the river’s bed. The flow of water over the cliff will vary greatly depending on time of year and amount of rainfall. It had been a fairly dry late summer when I visited so there was little more than a tiny ribbon of water flowing over the edge. In spring after the melt or in rainier times, the flow of water is much greater.
Taughannock Falls

Taughannock Falls Wide View
Further up river, there is another falls – Upper Falls. You can’t get to it from the Gorge Trail but can from either the North Rim or South Rim trails. Unfortunately, the Gorge Trail doesn’t meet up with either of these so you’ll need to walk back out and back in again if you want to get to Upper Falls. Or you can drive out and park at the upper end of the trail and walk back the short distance to Upper Falls.
Buttermilk Falls State Park is about 2 miles from Treman SP and both could be visited on the same day if you wanted. Of the five parks I visited, Buttermilk was the most disappointing and if one had to be left out, this would be the one. Buttermilk Falls itself is a long, sloping cascade that almost looks like it’d make a decent toboggan hill. It’s accessible from the parking lot at the lower entrance to the park and there isn’t a lot of reason to go much further except for the walk, unfortunately. The vertical drop overall from top to bottom is about 400 to 500 feet. The Gorge Trail is a little under a mile but it is steep, climbing 500 feet in that distance. You can cross Buttermilk Creek near the top of the Gorge Trail at Pinnacle Rock or right at the top of the trail and connect back with the Rim Trail for a different route back down. The trail is steep in places with little to no stairs to help the climb. In other places, there are stairs. A good, sturdy walking staff will help and you’ll be grabbing onto trees and roots in places to help pull yourself up. Due to the steep climbs and lack of stairs in places, I’d rate this trail as moderate to difficult.
There are some potentially interesting shots of some other falls on the way up the trail but sadly, these are largely obscured by trees.

Buttermilk Falls SP

Buttermilk Falls SP
While it’s called the Gorge Trail, and while the gorge is visible on many parts of the trail, unlike the other parks, you’re not often very close to the gorge or the creek. In many places, the trail really is more of a rim trail, taking you along the top of the gorge. The roughness of the ground make setting up a tripod very difficult in places and the placement of a chest high fence along the trail impedes camera angles.
Pinnacle Rock, near the top of the trail is an interesting natural formation. It’s a lone outcropping of rock that has been created by the erosion of water between it and the wall of the gorge. Getting a good photo of it is difficult. On the day I visited, the light wasn’t great and any direction I tried to shoot from I was getting a lot of flare. You have to be fairly close to the formation to frame it as well which makes apparent perspective distortion an unpleasant side effect.
In the upper half of the Gorge Trail, you begin to get closer to the water, walking right beside the creek bed at points. It’s in this area that some better photo opportunities are available. Stupidly, I left my spare batteries in the motel room on this morning so didn’t get some of the better shots at the upper end of the trail.

Buttermilk Falls SP
Allow an hour to 75 minutes for the hike up and a similar time for the walk back down. There’s not a lot of difference in time to get back down whether you come back down the Gorge Trail or cross over the creek to the Rim Trail.
There’s also the Larch Meadow Trail which is across the creek from the lower parking area and beyond the baseball fields which are visible upon crossing the creek on the roadway. This trail is supposed to be very good for wildlife and birds. I didn’t hike it myself but am relating what was told to me by locals. Locals know.
The last park I visited on the trek was Letchworth State Park. I only had a day to visit this one but if you can spend a few days, it’s well worth it. Nicknamed “The Grand Canyon of the East”, the reason for the moniker becomes readily apparent when you start walking the trails. Deep, wide canyons have been cut by the water and wind through the park. Letchworth SP is about 60 miles from Watkins Glen and it takes 90 minutes to 2 hours to drive there depending on traffic, route taken and construction. You can enter from the north or south end. If you want to hike the Gorge Trail, entering from the south, at the Portageville entrance and parking in the small lot near the railroad trestle would be optimal because this is also near the head of the Gorge Trail. This lot is pretty close to the south end of the park. If you drive in from the north, it’s about a 10 mile drive through the park to this lot at the south.
The Gorge Trail is roughly 7 miles long. There are three main waterfalls on this trail with numerous others that can be seen as well. The three main ones are Upper, Middle and Lower Falls. Lower Falls is roughly half way along the trail. I’m not certain of the exact vertical but it is several hundred feet from the head of the trail to Lower Falls. The trail is fairly well marked. It’s well maintained in some places but not so well maintained in others. There are some steep climbs. In places, stairs have heaved or are missing entirely. Some steep climbs don’t have stairs at all and in some places, the height of the individual stairs is significant. Overall, I’d rate this trail as moderate and difficult in places. At times during the year, the part of the trail that leads to Lower Falls may be impassable due to wet conditions. When I visited, despite it having been a fairly dry autumn, this part of the trail was quite wet which made walking difficult in places. The climb in and out of the gorge to and from the Lower Falls is long and steady with little break from the slope. Be prepared. The trail does pass through some forested areas which provide shade and a respite from the climbs. At Lower Falls, there’s a bridge over the river which allows you to connect to the Portage or Footbridge trails.
One of the most popular spots to view Middle Falls is from Inspiration Point. If you get the right angle, you can get Upper Falls in the shot as well.

Middle & Upper Falls from Inspiration Point

Lower Falls from the footbridge

Closer view of Lower Falls

The Grand Canyon of the East
Where to Stay: There are numerous hotels, motels and inns in the area. I stayed at the Golden Knight Inn on Rt 14 just outside of Watkins Glen. It was clean and the owners were very friendly and helpful. The decor is dated but that’s fine. The water gets hot in the shower very quickly and you don’t get scalded or frozen when someone in another unit turns on their water nor does the pressure change markedly (something a lot of high end hotels can’t even say). Wireless internet access is available. When I was there you needed to be close to the office to use it so if you need it, make sure to ask for a room within the range of their router.
Where to Eat: Montage Restaurant – Avoid. The carpet is dirty and grungy. The food is awful. Rooster Fish Brewing/Wildflower Cafe – Excellent brewpub. Very nice selection of beers brewed on site. Food is good. Comes to the table hot. Bread is home made and very tasty. Hours are bit odd. I went to eat at about 9:00 on a Saturday night (admittedly not in high tourist season) and was told they were closing the dining room but I could get food in the pub. Closing at 9:00 on a Saturday? Still, good food and friendly staff. Jerlando’s Pizza – decent food. Probably a 3 to 3 1/2 stars out of 5. The food is hot. My pasta was cooked a little past al dente but it wasn’t mush. The meatballs had good flavour. The pizza is OK. It’s hard to find good pizza though. On another trip to the area, I’d eat there again. Seneca Harbor Station – not a pleasant experience. Waited at the entrance for 10 minutes before anyone asked if I wanted a table. Maybe they figured I was waiting for someone else but they should have asked. It was busy the night I was there. Maybe that says something, maybe not. It’s passable seafood but that’s about all. Not spectacular, not even really good. The service is very fast. Too fast. Courses followed on each other before the previous course was finished. If you’re looking for a somewhat leisurely dining experience, this isn’t it. Overpriced for what you get. I wouldn’t go back. On the upside, their bread is quite good is served hot and has nice flavour. The staff were very indifferent. It felt as though my being there was an inconvenience and that they were doing me a favour by serving me. Not a pleasant experience. Savard’s Family Restaurant – good place for breakfast. Typical diner type fare. Served hot. Lots of food. Good prices.
What Else to Do: There are many wineries in the area and maps are available at most accommodations with information on the routes. Corning has the Corning Glass Museum which includes glass blowing demonstrations. There are numerous other state parks and nature areas in the region including Finger Lakes National Forest, Cayuga Nature Centre and on the campus at Cornell University are Sapsucker Woods Sanctuary and the Cornell Plantations.
Robert Fisher Travel Buttermilk Falls, Finger Lakes, hiking, landscape, landscape photography, Letchworth, nature, New York, New York State, new york state parks, NY, NY Wine Country, photography, Robert H. Treman, state parks, Taughannock Falls, waterfalls, Watkins Glen